There
is a bit in one of my favourite TV series, The Trip, where Steve
Coogan announces to Rob Brydon that he intends to walk to
the top of a famous beauty spot. If Rob doesn’t want to come, will
he be OK for a couple of hours. Rob shrugs, as if to say how could
this be a problem.
The first and second times we watched this bit I was horrified. The
very idea that I would have to spend two hours half-way up nowhere
without a book or music and only the landscape and my own thoughts
for company. Just how would I cope? How heavy would the time drag?
So, you may have gathered that unlike many of my druid friends, my
partner and my late wife I am not one of those people who can easily
settle on their own outside the house. I suppose that may largely be due
to that fact that time often hangs so heavy for me, and that
I suppose ever since I can remember I have felt ever so slightly uneasy
when I am left on my own without being prepared. It can happen in
someone else’s house too. Twice now I’ve stayed with a friend who
lives next to a stream in Denbighshire and much as her house and
grounds are lovely, I’ve always been a little ill at ease. The
first time I was on my own from mid afternoon when her partner dropped me off, to the moment I heard her come
in sometime after midnight. Towards the end of this wait a poor
moth nosily committed accidental suicide in the bedside lamp.
What can have happened to me? Contrast all that 'hardly dare say boo to a
landscape' to this.
In autumn 1998 my partner dropped me off, (I am still a non-driver) in Tintagel
at a guest house called Ye Olde Malthouse, where I was welcomed by
the landlady before placing my bags etc in the only single room, which was
called Sir Bedivere. Planning to return after lunch on Sunday, she
gave me a hug, (Josie, not the landlady!) and was away. I was on my own now in a more or less
strange place and for the first time in my life. I’d had that discussion with a friend about needing to do this only a few weeks
earlier and now here it was happening. As part of a druid summer camp
solstice ritual I had asked for ‘the comfort of solitude’ and
here it was opening its welcoming arms. Aargh!!
Except
no it wasn’t aargh, for a strange and nice thing happened to me
gentle reader, and it was this. In the middle of my panic and over my
racing heart, I suddenly got the urge to walk – and that’s what I
did. I locked my door and pocketed my key and then opened the front
door into the main street of this place I had always loved, but never
spent time alone in. As if almost floating on air I soon found
myself, like some spiritual homing pigeon. on the back road towards
the church and Glebe Cliff, and more than that, as if a great weight
had been lifted from me and was at the same time propelling me
forward kindly and purposefully. I felt loved and nurtured and
protected in a way I have only done at certain unique places. Could
this be to do with the alignment of two lay-lines perhaps, or was
it just that moment due in my life when certain spiritual parts of me
happily clicked together, backed by my previous solstice intent, which had been repeated twice daily for weeks. I remember at the time
thinking that it must be something of this kind of certainty that saints
felt, this sense of being both held supported and in turn part of a larger something. I
felt it mostly on Glebe Cliff themselves with Merlin’s cave
beneath and the tiny, cold church behind.
I
continued to feel it all that weekend and the same the next time I
came. This first visit ended with me finally finding the opening sentences of the piece I was working on and then returning to
normality. The second time, learning the script this time, the feelings were the same.
Would
I ever feel that way again outside Tintagel. Somehow I doubted it.
This
wouldn't turn out quite true. In 2007, following the death of my wife Celia in
2006, I took a pilgrimage trip on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. When
I spoke to the lady from Celtic Trails, and explained my situation,
she said that this was thought to be a very healing coast –
and for the most part so it proved. It wasn’t as obvious a feeling
as the first time in Tintagel, but it was there and again of course it
was associated with the sea – a place where I am nearly always
happy. When you’re away on your own of course and maybe especially
on my kind of pilgrimage trip, you talk to people and they talk to
you. I never made any excuse for talking about Celia and sharing her
story and people responded. There was no need for either them or me
to be embarrassed, for somehow there seems to be less of this in a
place where you know nobody. And as long as I did the requisite
number of miles, there was always somewhere comfortable to stay at
the end of it and often – as in the Clock House in Marloes, the
most fabulous food as well.
I have then used the experience of walking in solitude for both
inspiration and grief, and I would recommend it, whether it be the
few miles from Tintagel to Boscastle, (by road in this case, so you
can visit the wonderful Nechtan’s Glenn), or the 49 miles from
Sandy Haven to St Justinian’s via Marloes, Broadhaven and Solva.
So
how does all this connect with writing and books and maybe more to
the point how did the adventurer who braved 49 miles of coast
path, (fairly easy, as it turns out – you just keep the sea on your
left?), equate with the person who hardly wants to go out of doors some days.
Well I think a writer friend gave me the answer the other day when
she said that when facing outer crises we writers are more fortunate because we often have a ready made world or fantasy to retreat into. In other
words the very imagination that makes us maybe far more able to fear
the consequences of that crisis, whether it be an illness, a house
move, or just treading on the cat’s paw, actually serves us within
that crisis by giving us something to retreat to.
The
final piece of this jigsaw slotted in yesterday when a member of our support team came round. At the end of the visit, Rosie asked
him if he had any pictures of his farm, to which he replied, ‘I’m
afraid not. I don’t even own a mobile phone except for work.’ He
went on to say how he wasn’t into any of that kind of modern form
of communication, at which point I said, ‘Gareth’s a land man,
aren’t you.’ He nodded, saying I had that entirely right.
This
got me to questioning why I wasn’t one, why I sometimes had to drag
myself out for a walk and while being jealous of those, who like Celia
used to, are happy to walk hither and yon, I just end up on the same
old routes, hardly having the sense of adventure to push on further.
Well I used to feel sorry about it but, as I grow older, less so. As
long as I get the right amount of exercise etc.
I
realise now however why I’m not a land man, but still somehow
don’t feel the lack. The answer is that I get it all either from writing or reading book, and in the later case I can venture further
and for longer to more exciting places than I ever could or maybe now
ever will in real life. And my jaunts can be the smallest, such as
sitting with John Rebus and Siobhan Clarke in the Oxford Bar in
Edinburgh, or venturing far north as the Isle of Arran, which is
the setting for next month’s blog. I can enter a reinvented and
much more exciting nineteenth century with Jonathan Strange and Mr
Norrell or solve crimes with Sister Fidelma in seventh century
Ireland. Even in my own work I can meet an angel in Doctor Dee’s
cellar with Bess o’ Bedlam, or a lady of faerie on Leith Hill Tower
with the young Ralph Vaughan-Williams.
These
are just a few of the imagined and wonderful roads I can take with
rich to enrich my life, the paths less or not yet even trodden, the
virgin landscapes that await my first nervous foot. And I can do all
this without getting blisters.
With
books and writing there has to also be music. I spend my life
surrounded by music and would not have it any way. I work to it, (to
some people’s horror), especially Vaughan- Williams and latterly
Bach. I go to sleep to the strains of early music, and Rosie and I
watch the Proms and Cardiff Singer of the World avidly, in the same
way that we watch and listen to Steve Hackett, Peter Gabriel, Bruce
Springsteen, Sonny Rollins and Miles Davis, Coleman Hawtooou're entering into a particular world and characters. With music it's maybe less so, un the partnership of singer and pianist, you can hear the composer being a poet. Not everyone of course can do this.
Most children's experience of classical music in particular, comes in childhood, either with parents who appreciate it too, or wish to give them as wide a range of music to listen to as possible, or through the sadly declining opportunity to learn a particular instrument at school. When we were little my sister and I had copies of extracts from Tchaikovsky's Swan Lake and a record with Prokofiev's Peter and the Wolf on one side and Benjamin Britten's Young People's Guide to the Orchestra. Peter and the Wolf in particular is about as perfect as an introduction to both music and story as a child can get,. A narrator, (usually someone high profile nowadays) tells the simple story with the help of strings, (Peter), bassoon, (Grandfather), oboe, (Duck), clarinet, (Cat), French Horn, (Hunters). It is at the same time an exciting adventure and a simple introduction to the instruments of the audience. If you want a funnier one however, you should check out Bill Bailey's Remarkable Guide to the Orchestra , which covers a lot of the same ground, but has better jokes!
So where does all this leave us? If this isn't just to be a pleasant ramble through my desire to be more of a home-bird than a venturer into the wide blue yonder, then it misses my point, which is that sometimes the landscape of story is quite able to compensate for the lack of, or in my case sometimes desire for the actual landscape. After all everyone isn't lucky enough to have landscape on their doorstep and there are certain urban communities and children in particular who have become quite scared of the idea of the countryside. What they will always have however and their parents with them, are the landscapes provided by story and music. They may not all be physical, but they remain to work their magic in the mind and - in their own way might have done s much to help me deal with a bereavement - as the actual journey I decided to take.
Enjoy your walking into landscape - but don't neglect the inner one.
Steve Gladwin
'Tales From The Realm' - Story and Screen Dream
Connecting Myth, Faerie and Magic
Author of 'The Seven' - Shortlisted for Welsh Books Prize, 2014
6 comments:
Thanks for this, Steve! I love the idea of "a healing coast."
I've always loved being alone in other people's houses.
The opportunity to sample their lives, without the necessity to deal with the people themselves for anything more than socially necessary minimalism.
The opportunity to read their books, eat their Rice Krispies, sleep in their beds.
I like the idea too, Joan, and both that part of Cornwall and Pembrokeshire have proved it for me.
Andrew, I also know what you mean. In fact you've just reminded me that I once started a book that way. I wonder what happened to it. Perhaps you or someone crept into my house, ate my rice crispies, slept in my bed - and STOLE MY MANUSCRIPT!
Would love to do this, but damaged ankle won't let me, and it's hard to to it in imagination.
I really enjoyed this. Thank you.
Thanks, Anne and Enid, I really hope you're able to walk properly soon. You're right in that the imagination can only do so much.
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